10/27 (四)
经过好几周的策划研究带着俺们的计划上路了。这次的线路最后定下来是私德各二嫫,赫尔辛堡,赫尔辛格,哥本哈根,汉堡,柏林/波茨坦。机票是用的里程定的,只要缴税总共350多。前五天的酒店都是用酒店的积分换的,免费。所以这次出行的费用还是可以接受的,呵呵。。。
今天早上还上了班,中午把孩纸从学校里接回来直接就去了机场。第一站老山鸡,在阿诺德老乡的餐厅里吃了个皮萨喝了个酒吃了个皮萨,啤酒近十块一瓶12oz。消费不起啊!正点老山鸡去伦敦,然后接转SAS接着飞斯德歌尔摩。一路顺利,到达斯德歌时已经是当地时间28号下午五点多了。
俺们选择坐flygbusarna大巴进城,网购99瑞典克朗sek一张票,上车购票要119sek。斯德哥arlanda机场有免费wifi,车票用手机就搞定了。车程四十多分钟,也有免费wifi,不过很慢,发几条文字信息还行。斯德歌的机场略显老旧,这大概是搞社会主义的结果。大巴的终点是中央车站,火车汽车站都在那儿。先取了一千瑞典克朗现款,atm卡很好用,汇率也很好,大约1美元=8.9瑞典克朗。这是俺们头一次来欧洲赶上强势美元。然后俺们在subway赛百味随便吃了点东西算是晚饭了,花费114sek。这边貌似赛百味,麦当劳,汉堡王都很流行。然后孩纸闹着要上厕所,这才给了俺们第一手上厕所收费的信息,原来欧洲的统一价格貌似是0.80欧,瑞典这边要十克朗,狗日的涨价儿了!接着到隔壁的火车站去买后天夜里去赫尔辛堡的卧铺,商量了半天买了一等票,俺们自己一个包厢上下两个卧铺,带卫生间淋浴,小孩没床也不收钱,共计2246sek。
这个事儿办完了俺们就溜达着去酒店了,地图上显示只有1.7公里。手机导航着还让俺婆娘detour(绕道)了一下,不过到了酒店人家给俺们升级了,立马气儿就消了。房间的窗户对着老城gamla stan,还能看见市政厅大楼。赶紧睡觉!
10/29 (六)
早上起来看见日出,喜出望外,俺们的运气奏是好。这阵子斯德歌的天气一直是阴雨。特地给俺们放两天晴。太棒了。虽然昨天到得晚,俺们还是很早就醒了,时差在作怪。今天的计划是市政厅和老城。结果俺们超额完成任务,明天就轻松了。对斯德哥的第一印象是普通的美腻欧洲老城,比起去过的其他地方没有什么特别的姿色。人比较友好,热心助人,普遍都会说英语。貌似市内也禁烟了,因为门口尽是站着抽烟的,让人有些哭笑不得。
窗口看出去,左边第一个是市政厅,第二个是骑士教堂(皇家墓地),靠右手边就是老城gamla stan。
天慢慢开始亮了,东方开始泛红
然后火车频率就开始频繁了
前面的尖顶是老城的德国教堂,后面那个绿不啦叽的是斯德歌大教堂,在皇宫旁边
早饭也是酒店请,免费,填饱了肚子俺们仨就雄赳赳气昂昂地出门儿了。虽然是个艳阳天,温度还是比较冷,四十华氏度的样子,加上有点小风,俺们还是把手套帽子都戴上了。
希尔顿slussen就在老城对面的高坡上,走过去很近,俺们的打算是去赶11点的市政厅参观(必须跟市政厅的导游,有不同语言的),这样俺们就还有些时间在老城转一圈。出来的早,今天又是周六,所以老城里见不着几个人影,太好了。
gamla stan岛是个中世纪风格的小镇,俺们左兜右转了半天,咋看这地儿咋像俺们两年前去的布拉格和克拉科夫。路灯和门牌字体都极其相似。不过瑞典这边好些人都是不同年代从德国过来的,德国又跟波兰捷克那么打打杀杀地亲如一家,所以建筑装饰类似又似乎不辣么出乎意料了。
百度百科:老城(Gamla Stan),1980年前官方名称为“桥间之城”(Staden mellan broarna),是瑞典斯德哥尔摩的一个古老城镇。老城主要包括Stadsholmen岛的地区;官方区划虽然把Riddarholmen、Helgeandsholmen和Strömsborg都划入老城区,但一般人所指的老城都不包括这三个地区。
小镇子的确很美,可是再美的东西看多了也会麻木。感觉欧洲隔三年来一回比较合适。前年欧洲之行的印象还木有怎么淡化去。
美人鱼夫妇?
俺喜欢看这种小店的门脸,精致小巧,不过从未进过任何店去买东西。
镇子中心广场,诺贝尔博物馆就在左手边,还没开门儿,本想进去看看的,结果没开门。等俺们兜一圈回头再路过这里又没了兴趣。俺们本来就对进博物馆不是那么热心,属于比较肤浅的哪一类。
俺走到哪儿都喜欢拍井盖儿,欧洲的井盖儿比较艺术,很有沧桑美
小咖啡店,时光在这儿像是被锁住了,可惜俺俩都不喝咖啡
早点店?
诺贝尔博物馆正脸儿
纹身店
骑士教堂,原来周边都是僧院,这个教堂的特别之处是很多皇家人物的墓安在里面。等俺们从市政厅回来时在外面看了一圈,在门口伸了个头看了看,没见啥稀奇物件儿,就没买票进去。后面这个“就没买票进去”出现的频率比较高,呵呵。。。
远望市政厅,此地是斯德哥市议会所在地,一楼的蓝厅是诺贝尔奖的宴会厅,二楼金厅是舞会厅。具体颁奖不在这里。
上了桥了,看看对岸
步行桥是单独分开的,主桥走骑车火车
路标,市政厅city hall 左转
没几步路就到了,斯德哥主要景点都离得不远,基本都可以步行
这个市政厅建筑还是挺有特色的,建于1911年,用时12年。听导游的口气他们还是很自豪的。
市政厅门票80sek/人,俺们点儿赶得不错,没等多长时间就在导游的带领下进来了。俺们跟的是英语导游,斯德哥这边貌似小伙伴儿们英语说的都不错,随便抓个人都能说上几句,而且不少人说的很利索。
百度百科:斯德哥尔摩市政厅建于1911年,历时12年才完成,是瑞典建筑中最重要的作品。建筑两边临水,一座巍然矗立着的塔楼,与沿水面展开的裙房形成强烈的对比,加之装饰性很强的纵向长条窗,整个建筑犹如一艘航行中的大船,宏伟壮丽。
这就是所谓的蓝厅,诺贝尔宴会厅,说是辣么多人,每个人只有60厘米的桌边长度,主桌稍微多点儿75厘米。谁也没闹明白这厅为啥叫个蓝厅。一说是原来设计师管这个叫蓝厅打算贴满蓝瓷砖的,看见红砖在阳光下的颜色决定不贴蓝瓷砖了,但是名字却沿用了。大厅设计成这样是因为冬天比较长,所以故意把室内搞得跟室外似的,而且是意大利风格。
楼上的展品,不同时期的诺奖纪念章(币)。
二楼议会厅,现在还是议会开会的地方,楼上的座位是给市民和记者旁听用的,底下是政客们互喷的地方
这个厅的顶很有特色
旁边通往金厅的这个屋子的顶很精致,四壁是珍贵的法国的挂毯
法国挂毯
这是他们的个神马王纸才高八斗,自告奋勇的来做壁画,用的是湿石膏作画法,容不得闪失,弄错了就得铲掉重来
这些壁画就在长廊左边柱子后面
金厅的确晶壁辉煌,墙上又各种人物和场景,主要内容在对面墙上,画的是马尔默湖的女神,置身于世界的中心
左边是西方世界,美国法国等,右边是东方,印度土耳其之类的,一看就是不拿天朝当个事儿啊!俺问导游他们有木有后悔把和平奖发给傲八马,她说和平奖不归他们发,由挪威发。说原来挪威瑞典是一个国家也不知为啥就这么掰成两个国家了。
出来后来到河边看看
这个房顶上还有个穆斯林的弯月,不知是何寓意
市议会的庭院
看完了市议再折回老城ganmla stan
又路过骑士教堂
十七世纪的教堂和僧院模型图
老爷子饿了,伸头看看人家开没开
小铺子招牌,斯德哥不便宜,快餐都要个十几块美元,普通啤酒十多美元一瓶/310毫升。TA上的同学们介绍说老城区餐饮是最贵的,过了桥到南边的生活区会便宜很多,可,可,可俺们是来玩儿的啊,去生活区做啥?又肿么会有辣么多的时间去觅食儿呢?真是头疼的事儿!
回到老城这边,老远就听皇宫这边热闹非凡,掐指一算,这该是换岗么?
看完了换岗接着溜达,这个换岗比起英国的差远了,不过比起捷克希腊啥的又排场不少
霸气防盗窗
又来到了诺贝尔博物馆,这次开放了,不过俺们已经没兴趣了
中心广场
这个门儿和俺们在克拉科夫看的神似,门牌号的字体雷同
又看见了不少小店面
灰常喜欢这种灯盒子加门牌号
又走到了河边,回看皇宫,俺们对皇宫兴趣也不大,视频上看了,里面的东西都是俺家没有的。
看见了游船,孩纸吵吵着要坐,一问120sek/人(正常价180sek, 淡季优惠),坐吧!正好也走累了。结果这一小时游船还不错,兜着周边的三个岛从水上把主要景点浏览了一下。
从水上看街景
这是在另一个岛上的瑞典自然博物馆,明天过来,后来俺们自然也没进去。
瓦萨沉船博物馆,在自然博物馆的后面
还有个大游乐场,冬天停业
这个长颈鹿不错
这是去芬兰和东欧那边的游船,下次可以考虑坐个这个
这个是希尔顿酒店附近的一个巨贵的餐馆,特色是有个天桥可以远眺,俺们自然是木有那份银子上去。
游船下来后,小宝时差强力来袭,辛亏俺们带了小推车和罩子,她得以舒舒服服暖暖和和的在车上睡过去了。俺们到了老城北边的购物街兜了一圈,一无所获,这边也不值得来
斯德哥的出租车是司机可以随便定价的,前提是要把价钱用个统一的黄牌子明确的贴出来。俺们看见的价格有380多sek的也有600多的,一不小心就会上当。据说380多是正常价格。
在老城的一家比萨克巴布小店里吃了饭,俺的克巴布119sek,婆姨的肉卷95sek,可乐60sek,共计274sek,味道不错,价格不便宜。斯德哥不是个便宜地界儿!普通啤酒基本十美元一瓶。完事儿了俺们就回酒店了,楼上的行政楼层有免费的小吃和酒水,那啥,多谢了!
酒店的床铺的很有特色,两床小被子,分开铺的,各睡各的?第一天圆满结束,而且进度提前了,除了没见着啥新鲜玩意儿,大家都很嗨皮。
armed with the insights I got from this forum and other websites we worked out a tentative plan for our two days in Stockholm.
10/28 fri -
we flew from boi - lax - lhr, then landed at arlanda airport a bit after 5pm, smooth sailing all the way. free wifi at the airport, bought our flygbussarna tickets for 99 sek each using my smart phone, my usa visa card worked fine. if you buy the ticket on bus it would cost 109 sek instead. the bus took off not long after we boarded. free wifi available on board, but only good fro sending short text messages. it took about 40 minutes to arrive at the central terminal.
after having a quick sandwich at the subway in the central terminal we went to buy our train tickets for Stockholm to Helsingborg at the train station next door. same price as what was indicated on sj website. 2246 sek total for a private compartment from Stockholm to hasselholm then communter train to Helsingborg, for two bunker beds, no charge for our 5 yearold. the exchange rate reflected in my credit card message was about 1 usd = 8.95 sek. we were told by the sj staff that their website doesn't take usa issued credit cards. however, you can always call in and book tickets.
afterwards we took a walk towards our hotel on the other side of the bay, Hilton slussen, the price was right, on points! the temperature wasn't very chilly, similar to ours at home. but it was a bit windy, which made it a bit hard on the face. all in all, the arrival experience was very nice. we were given a room with the view to gamla stan and the city hall, great start!
10/29 sat -
after a good night sleep, although it was barely four hours for me, the sun came out at around 7:30am. beautiful view out of our window towards gamla stan, the city hall and the bridges with morning train traffic picking up the speed. what a beautiful start of the day! breakfast on the house, with decent varieties. today's plan: the city hall and gamla stan.
had a brief walk through gamla stan on our way to the city hall. for a strange reason we had a strong sense that everything looked very familiar, in the end we decided that gamla stan looks very much like the old streets in prague and crakow, the décor of small shops, light fixings, street numbers, etc. can anyone offer an explanation?
the city hall was just a short walk away. the tour was very well organized. we timed ourselves to arrive for the 11am tour. so all worked out fine. the tour is very interesting. the golden hall was very impressive. the building is interesting to us because of its nobel prize association. admission was 80 sek pp.
after we were done with the city hall, we walked back to gamla stan, passing by riddarholmskyrkan church. didn't bother to go in, had a look outside and snapped a few pictures. by the time we arrived near the royal palace we saw the change of guard in progress, so we went that direction and took a look, nothing special. wondered around a bit more and ended up at the boat tour place. it was about time for the next departure so we took it, 120 sek pp (regular price 180 sek pp). the boat tour went around the islands and gave us an idea about where everything is, well worth the money.
after the boat tour, it was now at 4pm, the little one couldn't resist her jet lag and fell asleep. thank goodness that we brought the stroller along so that daddy didn't have to carry her all the way back to hotel and we were still able to keep on with our browsing. we stopped at a kebab place in gamla stan to have lunch, it was good, the kebab plate 119 sek, donner wrap sandwich 95 sek, coke 60 sek, total 274 sek. pretty expensive compareing to what we can get at home. afterwards. on our way back to hotel we stopped by at a seven-eleven and picked up two 1.5 liter bottled water 56 sek, a carton of juice 28 sek.
didn't go out for dinner, went up to hotel lounge and got some drinks and small eats, on the house because we got upgraded. not too bad.
our first impression of Stockholm is that people were friendly and helpful. the city is nice and beautiful, just like many other old European cities we have been to, but she lacks features that stands herself out in the crowds. one thing we really didn't like is that it seems people smoke everywhere. I guess it is banned to smoke inside because I saw a lot of people smoke around entrances.